Charcoal is the soul of chef Adam Evans ‘restaurant, Current Charcoal Grill in Birmingham, Alabama. And at his latest concept with chef and partner Luke Joseph, they aren’t just burning any charcoal. The secret to their delectable yakitori-style chicken skewers and succulent whole roast duck is a specialty charcoal that’s existed since the Edo period: binchotan. Here is everything you need to know about the charcoal chefs say is the best in the world.
What is binchotan?
Binchotan is a type of Japanese hardwood lump charcoal made from white oak tree branches, typically Holm oak or Ubame oak. Compared to regular lump charcoal, which is around 75% pure carbon, binchotan is about 95% pure carbon, making it completely odorless. According to the Yakiniku Grill website, it burns at an even heat on average for four to six hours, about twice as long as other lump charcoal. It’s one of the many reasons Evans and Joseph find binchotan in a league of its own for grilling. “Binchotan burns hotter, cleaner, and far longer,” says Joseph. “It gives off less smoke than typical charcoal, resulting in a milder charred flavor in food.”
How is binchotan made?
To make binchotan, Japanese binchotan craftsmen stack cut oak branches inside large, hand-made kilns made from stone and clay, known as “bincho kilns.” The makers light the branches and seal the kiln, leaving holes at the top and bottom to allow for airflow and release steam. Then, they are burned at very low temperatures for about a week, removing all moisture from the wood and transforming it into charcoal. From here, craftsmen poke more openings in the kiln, gradually letting in more air. This process, known as refining or “seiren,” separates binchotan from the charcoal pack. During refining, the kiln’s temperature reaches over 1,000℉ as it burns off lingering tree bark. After one to two days of refining, the result is a denser charcoal with a higher carbon content. Finally, the craftsmen remove the charcoal from the kiln and cover it with sand and ashes to cool it down slowly. The dust that coats the charcoal is where binchotan got the nickname “white charcoal.”
What is binchotan so expensive?
Several factors play into binchotan’s price point, starting with the extensive labor process behind making the charcoal. It takes up to two weeks to fully complete with an experienced craftsman. Binchotan is also prized for its effectiveness on the grill. According to Joseph, it’s harder than other lump charcoal and radiates infrared light that cooks food more evenly. “Its intense heat vaporizes drippings, resulting in beautiful smokiness,” he says.
How do I use binchotan?
While binchotan commonly pairs with a Japanese konro grill, aka yakitori grill, you can use it on a standard charcoal grill. To light binchotan, you need a chimney or a fire starter. Next, place a few firelighters between the charcoal pieces and light them. Let them burn for about 15 minutes to heat the binchotan evenly. You can also gently blow on the charcoal to fan the flames. You can start grilling once the charcoal holds a consistent bright red glow. Binchotan is especially great for grilling skewers like tasty chicken or steak and vegetable skewers.
Where can I buy binchotan?
You can find binchotan charcoal at major retailers like Walmart and Home Depot. Online Japanese restaurant suppliers like mtckitchen or websites selling Japanese grills like binchogrill are also great places to check out.
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