Step 1
Heat 3 Tbsp. unsalted butter in a medium Dutch oven or other heavy pot over medium. Add 1 large onion, finely chopped, 4 celery stalks, thinly sliced, 6 garlic cloves, finely chopped, 2 tsp. chopped thyme, and 2½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1½ tsp. Morton kosher salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until onion is translucent and celery is softened, 6–8 minutes.
Step 2
Sprinkle ¼ cup all-purpose flour over onion mixture and cook, stirring, 1 minute to toast lightly. Add 1 small head of cauliflower (about 1 lb.), trimmed, cut into small florets, 8 baby Yukon Gold potatoes (about 10 oz.), scrubbed, each cut into eighths, 1½ cups heavy cream, and 5 cups water. Bring to a simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until cauliflower and potatoes are tender and liquid is slightly thickened, 20–25 minutes.
Step 3
Meanwhile, heat remaining 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter in a medium skillet over medium. Cook 2 cups oyster crackers, tossing or stirring often, until golden brown in spots, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat, sprinkle in 2 tsp. Old Bay seasoning, and toss until crackers are evenly coated.
Step 4
Stir 2 Tbsp. white or yellow miso and a few spoonfuls of chowder in a small bowl to dissolve miso. Stir back into chowder in pot. Remove from heat and season with more salt if needed and freshly ground pepper. If too thick, add a splash or so of hot water to loosen.
Step 5
Ladle chowder into bowls. Top each with a handful of seasoned crackers and some finely chopped chives or scallions and serve with lemon wedges.
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