Jamu is an Ancient Indonesian Tonic With Turmeric and Ginger

Indonesians swear by jamu. Families have their own recipes carried on from one generation to the next. Spices, roots, and herbs such as turmeric, ginger, and tamarind are traditionally ground into a thick slurry with a mortar and pestle, then consumed as either a shot, warm drink, or a chilled refresher. 

Jamu experienced a resurgence in Indonesia during the pandemic, as more people turned to food and drink that offered health benefits. It can now be found across the country, and jamu cafés, like Acaraki and Suwe Ora Jamu, opened by young artisans and entrepreneurs, have popped up across Indonesia. And the St. Regis Bali Bar has a cocktail loosely based on jamu, fortified by Beefeater gin. 

Stateside, there is also a small yet growing jamu community brewing. Once feared too bitter and salty, some Indonesian-Americans have started to embrace their childhood drink.

Shanley Alya Suganda is a third-generation jamu maker and founder of Djamu, a New York City-based company launched in 2021 to preserve the traditions of the herbal tonic. At Wayan Restaurant in New York City, Indonesian cuisine melds with French, with a jamu drink featured on the most recent cocktail menu. Indonesian companies like Jamulogy have started to sell jamu in the U.S. And juice bars like Puree Juice Bar in Bethesda, Maryland, have loyal fans who come for cold-pressed jamu. 

What is Jamu?

Jamu is as Indonesian as nasi goreng (Javanese fried rice) and gado-gado (salad with peanut sauce). Yet outside of the country, the ancient tincture is not widely known. 

Jamu is believed to have originated more than 1,300 years ago, created in the royal court as an elixir for longevity. Since then, it has continued to fuel Indonesians as a natural pick-me-up, remedy against ailments, and immune system booster. To many Indonesians, jamu is more than a drink. It’s a cultural, historical and spiritual homage to their country’s heritage and traditions.

“Jamu is much more than a simple beverage,” says Ibu Lilik, a third-generation herbalist who has performed jamu rituals at The Laguna Resort and Spa in Nusa Dua, Bali for more than 30 years. “It is a reflection of Indonesia’s rich heritage, a tonic passed down through generations, crafted from the island’s abundant natural resources.” 

Lilik says jamu is not only celebrated for its healing properties but also the way that it connects people to the land. “Ingredients like turmeric, ginger, tamarind, and lemongrass are the foundations of most jamu recipes and are known for their anti-inflammatory, digestive, and rejuvenating qualities, all of which contribute to the holistic approach to wellness that jamu promotes,” she says

Jamu is considered a cure-all in Indonesia, akin to chicken soup for Americans. 

“Growing up, my mom always made me drink jamu, especially kunyit asam (turmeric and honey) or beras kencur (rice and galangal),” says Ochi Latjuba, co-owner of Wayan. “Whenever I was about to get sick, Mom would insist it would boost my immune system. Those moments with jamu are a nostalgic part of my childhood, deeply connected to my mom’s care and wisdom,” she says.

Lilik admits that jamu can be an acquired taste. 

“At first, I didn’t like its strong, earthy smell,” she says. “But at the same time, the aroma of freshly ground turmeric and ginger filling the air, as well as the rhythmic motion of my grandmother and mom grinding the spices together, was special for me as a child. It made me feel loved.” 

The spicy and sometimes bitter tonic can be polarizing. Many Indonesians fought against their parents when forced to consume it as kids.

“It isn’t the kind of drink you’d look forward to,” says Suganda. “[It’s] bitter, earthy, and with a texture that made it hard to swallow. I can still remember holding my nose as I drank it, dreading every sip.” 

Suganda, founder of Djamu, first started to make jamu for friends and family.

“I wondered why jamu, something so powerful and beneficial, had to taste so awful,” she says. “It was more of a punishment than a cure. That thought stayed with me, and over time, it grew into a personal mission: to make jamu that’s not only good for you but also enjoyable to drink. 

“Now, looking back, I see those moments not just as lessons in resilience, but as inspiration to reimagine jamu, keeping its potency while crafting flavors that invite people in, rather than scare them away.” 

Jamu in the U.S.

“While a dedicated jamu community in the U.S. is still emerging, the increasing availability of jamu products indicates a growing awareness and appreciation for this unique aspect of Indonesian wellness culture,” says Suganda. “At Djamu, we’ve been testing our products in New York for the past three-and-a-half years. And the response has been amazing. Our customers love the health benefits and authentic flavors, and we’ve received incredible feedback,” she says. 

The signature jamu by Djamu is named Always Sunny, which contains fresh turmeric, ginger roots, tamarind, lemon, and monk fruit.

“Our tonics are made with 100% organic ingredients, and we’ve recently transitioned to a hot-fill process for shelf stability,” says Suganda.

In Maryland, Puree Juice Bar cold-presses only fresh ingredients to avoid the gritty taste that other brands have that use dry powders to prolong shelf life. 

“Our jamu is made with cold-pressed ginger, cold-pressed turmeric, cold-pressed lemon, local honey and filtered water,” says its founder, Amy Waldam. 

Waldman created her jamu during the pandemic. “It is perfect cold, or gently heated to be enjoyed as a delicious tea. It is a delicious elixir that keeps you healthy and is a great start to the day. It’s better than coffee,” she says.

Jamu’s legacy

It’s said that there are more than 15,000 recipes for jamu, almost one for every Indonesian island. 

“One twist from my family’s secret recipe is the addition of orange juice, which is not generally incorporated into a jamu, but refreshing for our guests at the hotel,” says Lilik. “My recipe blends a mixture of cloves, anise stars, mint leaves, brown sugar, lime juice, and honey. Once infused, it is mixed with freshly squeezed orange juice, creating a bright, invigorating drink that offers a perfect balance of flavors. 

“Jamu is not just a tonic for the body, it’s a tonic for the soul,” she says. “The ingredients are chosen with intention, each one playing its part in restoring harmony within the body and the world around us. I hope everyone who drinks it, tastes of Indonesia’s heritage, culture and rich legacy with every sip.”