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Why It Works
- Spatchcocking the bird results in meat that cooks faster and more evenly, with better-browned, crispier skin.
- Pushing the moist herb and spice mixture under the skin infuses its flavor into the meat and avoids the scorching that tends to happen when spices are rubbed on the outside of the skin.
When this idea occurred to me, I knew instantly what a stroke of genius it was—the woodsy herb, fennel, and garlic flavors in a classic Italian porchetta are an absolutely natural match for turkey. Then I discovered that Kenji had beaten me to the punch with his own turkey porchetta recipe. What can I say—great minds, right?
I forged ahead with this version, though, since mine is decidedly less of a project than his. While Kenji goes full-on porchetta—starting with skin-on boneless breasts, rolling them up into a cylinder with the skin wrapped around it, and carefully cooking it—I take a much lazier route.
Serious Eats / Vicky Wasik
I just shove the seasonings under the skin of a whole spatchcocked bird, throw it in the oven, and call it a day.
Serious Eats / Vicky Wasik
I use our recommended spatchcocking method, which guarantees the most evenly cooked meat, the crispest skin, and the quickest cooking time. That said, you could adapt this rub to a more traditional method for a whole roasted turkey.
This bird is so flavorful that it can stand on its own, which means that serving it with your typical gravy could be overkill. Instead, I recommend a light jus made from the reserved turkey spine, spooned on top for a little extra moisture. (Of course, if you want to go ahead and make gravy anyway, nobody’s gonna stop you!)
The most amazing part is just how seamlessly this Italian-influenced bird fits with the rest of the Thanksgiving table. If I didn’t know better, I might guess this was the original way the Pilgrims cooked their turkey back in the day. But I do know better: They were ascetics, and had no room for the hedonistic joys of life. Let’s not follow in their exact footsteps. A good place to start is making this.
November 2016
Give Your Roast Turkey an Italian Spin This Thanksgiving
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3 large onions, roughly chopped (about 1 1/2 quarts; 1 1/2 pounds; 680g), divided
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3 large carrots, peeled and roughly chopped (about 1 quart; 12 ounces; 340g), divided
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4 ribs celery, roughly chopped (about 1 quart; 12 ounces; 340g), divided
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12 thyme sprigs, divided
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1/2 tablespoon black peppercorns (1/4 ounce; 6g)
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1 tablespoon fennel seed (1/4 ounce; 8g)
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1 teaspoon (2g) red pepper flakes
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4 medium cloves garlic (3/4 ounce; 20g)
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1/2 cup fresh sage leaves (1/2 ounce; 15g)
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1 whole turkey (12 to 14 pounds total; 5.5 to 6.3kg), butterflied according to these instructions, backbone, neck, and giblets reserved
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2 tablespoons (30ml) vegetable oil, divided
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Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
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1 1/2 quarts (1.4L) homemade or store-bought low-sodium chicken or turkey stock
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2 bay leaves
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Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 450°F (230°C). Line a rimmed baking sheet with aluminum foil. Scatter two-thirds of onions, carrots, celery, and thyme sprigs across pan. Place a wire rack directly on top of vegetables.
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Using a food processor or mortar and pestle, combine peppercorns, fennel seed, red pepper flakes, garlic, and sage leaves and process or crush until a rough paste is formed, scraping down sides as needed.
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Pat turkey dry with paper towels. Rub 1 tablespoon (15ml) oil all over turkey, then season liberally on all surfaces with salt and black pepper. (If using a brined, salted, or kosher turkey, omit salting step; see note.) Using your hands, carefully separate skin from turkey breast and leg meat while leaving it fully intact. Stuff three-quarters of herb mixture under skin, making sure to spread it around in an even layer that covers as much of the meat as possible; try to avoid leaving large clumps in any one place. Rub remaining herb mixture all over underside of turkey.
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Tuck wing tips behind back. Place turkey on top of rack, arranging so that it does not overlap the edges, pressing down on breastbone to flatten breasts slightly.
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Transfer turkey to oven and roast, rotating occasionally, until an instant-read thermometer inserted into deepest part of breast registers 150°F (66°C) and thighs register at least 165°F (74°C), about 1 hour 20 minutes.
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While turkey roasts, make jus. Roughly chop reserved neck, backbone, and giblets. Heat remaining 1 tablespoon (15ml) oil in a 3-quart saucepan over high heat until shimmering. Add chopped turkey parts and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Add remaining onions, carrots, and celery and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until vegetables start to soften and brown in spots, about 5 minutes longer. Add chicken stock, remaining thyme sprigs, and bay leaves. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a bare simmer. Simmer until reduced by half, about 40 minutes. Strain through a fine-mesh strainer into a 2-quart liquid measuring cup and discard solids. Skim off any fat from surface of broth. Season jus to taste with salt and pepper, cover, and keep warm.
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When turkey is cooked, remove from oven and transfer rack to a new baking sheet. Allow to rest at room temperature for 20 minutes before carving. Carefully pour any collected juices from pan through a fine-mesh strainer into a liquid measuring cup. Skim off excess fat and discard. Whisk juices into jus.
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Carve turkey and serve with jus.
Notes
For best results, dry-brine your turkey by following the instructions here. If dry-brining, omit any extra salt added to the turkey in step 3.
Special Equipment
Rimmed baking sheet, wire rack, food processor or mortar and pestle, instant-read thermometer, fine-mesh strainer
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