From $50 to $700, Here Are the 7 Cognacs to Buy Right Now

Walking into the cellars of the Château de Cognac is as close to time travel as I’ve ever come. The structure traces its roots back to the 10th century, when it was built as a fortress overlooking the Charente River in southwest France; half a millennium later, King François I was born there. Today, it’s home to the Cognac producers Baron Otard and D’Ussé, and the cellars, with their arched ceilings and stacks of age-darkened barrels, feel somehow apart from time.

Still, Cognac is far from stuck in the past. In 2023, Fawn Weaver, spirits-industry powerhouse and founder of Uncle Nearest Premium Whiskey, acquired Domaine Saint Martin in Grande Champagne; the brand is among the few Black-owned Cognac producers, an example of how this ancient region is still evolving.

Cognac is arguably the most famous brandy in the world. It’s a highly regulated spirit, distilled twice in copper pots from wine produced primarily from Ugni Blanc grapes. Other varieties are permitted, but Ugni is king, thanks to its ability to retain its freshness through both fermentation and distillation. Like all wine regions, Cognac is broken up into smaller zones, and each of those six specific crus has its own particular terroir and microclimate that shape the grapes that grow there. 

The best Cognacs, like the region itself, seem to both defy and embody the graceful passage of the years. “Not only in the aging of the liquid — but in the fact that Cognac is not traditionally born from a single eau-de-vie. Rather, it is a blend of different estates, ages, and crus,” explains Vincent Chappe, the longtime global ambassador for Bisquit & Dubouché. “Blending a unique and rich Cognac is a complex and delicate art, executed by the master blender to yield a liquid that is an alchemy of time and place.”

Blending, in general, is one of the keys to Cognac’s success. And unlike most other spirits, Cognacs can be aged in both dry and humid cellars; in the former, more water evaporates through the porous wood staves, which leaves a different imprint on the liquid inside than those passing their years in damper cellars receive.

As for those letters adorning bottles across brands, they’re simply an indication of the age of the youngest spirit in the blend. VS (Very Special) means at least two years old; VSOP (Very Superior Old Pale), a minimum of four; XO (Extra Old) is a minimum of 10 years.

But it’s important to note that older is not necessarily better. As with all aged spirits, both older and more youthful expressions can be excellent. The key is to drink broadly, across a range of producers and styles — perhaps starting with these seven choices.

D’Ussé VSOP ($50)

This clove- and carob-accented Cognac is silky in texture and sweet with notes of golden raisin and caramel-coated coffee beans. It’s excellent on its own and makes a terrific base for cocktails, too.

Hardy Legend 1863 ($70)

This fascinating expression brings together Cognacs up to 12 years old, aged in deeply charred oak barrels. It sings with orange marmalade and caramelized white-peach notes, all mingled with vanilla-spiced French toast and mocha flavors.

Bisquit & Dubouché VSOP ($73)

A lovely, subtle VSOP, this dances with stone fruit and woody spices, joined by a hint of incense and honey. A lift of jasmine lingers through the long finish. 

Martingale Cognac ($120)

The Thomas family has been a key player for over 100 years as the source of eaux-de-vie for houses throughout the region, yet this bottle marks the first time they’ve released a Cognac under their own brand. It’s a vibrant, fascinatingly floral expression with baked apple and subtle fresh caramel notes. 

Rémy Martin Tercet Cognac Fine Champagne ($130)

The silky texture here carries flavors of chocolate, cinnamon, and quince paste. Spend a bit more time with a glass of this, and notes of ripe peach and grilled pineapple begin to emerge.

Cognac Frapin Cigar Blend XO premier Cru de Cognac Grande Champagne ($133)

Layered with character and complexity, this XO comes from estate-grown grapes that were crushed, fermented, distilled, and aged in humid cellars by Frapin. The result is sweet with cooked honey, baked apples, and dried apricots, plus light peppermint and cedar accents.

Grand Marnier Révélation Grande Cuvée ($700)

If you’re feeling exceptionally flush or just really, really want to blow someone’s mind with a gift, consider this cuvée. It isn’t technically a Cognac; rather, it’s a liqueur, thanks to the small addition of orange essence. But the Cognac in it is made exclusively in the Grande Champagne subregion and aged for at least 14 years. It’s ambrosial, with layers of flavor that recall chocolate-dipped orange peels, cigar tobacco, dried yellow plums, and honey. All of that lingers on and on — a remarkable drinking experience.