Feta And Cabbage Pierogi

Cabbage and feta pierogies hail from the Tatra Mountains of Poland. I spent many a Christmas in those picturesque mountains, skiing on the gentle slopes during the days and eating in a wooden chata (hut) in the evenings. The skiing isn’t very demanding there, and we would take breaks to drink mulled beer and snack often. These southernmost parts of the country are known for their sheep’s cheeses. Bryndza, a white cheese with a salty, slightly sour flavor, is usually the cheese of choice for cabbage pierogies. However, I find that feta works just as well and is readily available. Feta balances the sweetness of the cabbage, while the bacon bits bring a familiar richness of crispy pork fat.

Pierogies are deceptively easy to make. Traditionally, the Polish dough was made with just flour, a bit of oil, and warm water, but now we tend to enrich the dough with eggs and sometimes butter. It’s important to let the dough rest for 20 minutes or so before you roll it into a thin sheet. This allows the dough time to fully hydrate and the gluten to relax. I usually use a drinking glass to cut out the circle shapes. A spoonful of filling is placed in the center of each dough round and then folded over to seal. 

In the wintertime, I like to boil the pierogies and then fry them in butter on both sides until they are slightly crispy. The topping options, or okrasa, are endless. This recipe is finished with a vibrant sprinkling of chopped parsley, crumbled feta, and my babcia’s (grandma’s) favorite, crispy bacon. Pierogies, no matter the okrasa, are a comforting dish, great for welcoming you inside after a day in the bracing cold air. 

Notes from the Food & Wine Test Kitchen

When re-rolling the dough scraps, the dough may resist and shrink back. If this happens, just cover the dough with a clean towel and let it rest for 10 minutes before continuing to roll it out. 

Suggested pairing

Enjoy these pierogies with an Italian white with herbaceous aromas, like Gini Soave Classico.

Make ahead

Pierogies can be prepared through step 5 and frozen until hardened, about one hour. Transfer them to a large ziplock bag, and store in the freezer for up to one month. Boil the pierogies from frozen, increasing the time needed for dumplings to float to three to four minutes.