There was a time I would have sworn that the perfect accompaniment for a burger was a martini. But my allegiance has shifted: the Manhattan is the true king.
It’s taken me a while to reach this conclusion, but then I was served a really mediocre version of both: a sad smashburger-style slider and a slightly too-sweet Manhattan with an artificial, neon-pink maraschino cherry at the bottom of a V-shaped glass, shoved across the bar on a cafeteria-style aluminum tray.
And guess what? It was still pretty great.
While I can’t help but think of this as an extension of the pizza paradigm — the theory that even bad pizza is still pretty good — when both the burger and Manhattan are excellent, that’s a moment worth hunting down and savoring when you find it.
But why do Manhattans and burgers work so well together? The pros have a few theories.
Theory #1: It’s the whiskey
Adam Montgomerie, bar manager at New York City steakhouse Hawksmoor, which makes great examples of both specimens, gives credit to the whiskey for elevating the flavors of the burger. (Also, look for Hawksmoor’s decadent lunchtime-only cheeseburger served with bone marrow and “beef dripping fries.”)
“I love a burger with a Manhattan,” says Montgomerie. “I think there’s something about meat and whiskey that works so well together, and a Manhattan is definitely a whiskey-forward cocktail.” He usually opts for rye whiskey, observing “that spiciness the rye brings to the cocktail also works great with the burger.”
Theory #2: It’s the vermouth
My next stop: Ryan Fitzgerald, co-owner of San Francisco’s ABV. While the laid-back bar has been celebrated for its piled-high patty (yes, that’s baseball pro Gabe Kapler’s reel), it’s better-known for its cocktail prowess.
So maybe I shouldn’t have been surprised when Fitzgerald said he’d never actually tried pairing the two. In fact, he kept me hanging while he ran out and test-drove the combo himself, even pitting it against three other drinks. The Manhattan won the show, hands down. His theory: it’s all about the vermouth.
“I wasn’t convinced on paper,” he admits. “A Martini or Old-Fashioned or even a Bamboo sounded like it might be better at cutting the richness, like a great glass of red wine would, with its acidity and tannins.”
However, since sweet vermouth is basically red wine, albeit fortified and aromatized with bittering agents and botanicals , it’s no wonder the drink worked. The richness of the red wine base complemented the richness of the beef, but still provided just enough acidity to cut through the fattiness.
“The Manhattan was far and away the best pairing with our burger,” concedes Fitzgerald.
Further, he notes that the other three drinks were garnished with a citrus twist, which “clashed” with the burger, adding too much acidity.
Theory #3: It’s the burger
Frankly, a good burger doesn’t need much embellishment, says George Motz, burger scholar and owner of New York City’s Hamburger America.
“A burger has all you need in your mouth at one time, and the temperature, flavor and texture change all the time,” he says. This includes the satisfying crunch of the outside of a well-griddled beef patty to the acid and salt of a pickle to the richness of a slice of cheese or maybe a slick of mayo or sauce.
The one thing missing: a drink, preferably one that helps with digestion.
“I always recommend a whiskey cocktail with a burger to elevate the experience,” he says. “A beer can be too bloating, a soda can be too sweet.”
The pairing works so well, he says, because both elements “appear simple, but they’re really complex.” A three-ingredient whiskey cocktail is the right choice to complement a humble burger, and vice versa.
Theory #4: It’s the place
Some places make a stellar burger, others a top-notch Manhattan. But why is it so difficult to find restaurants that do both well?
“[Possibly] it’s because burgers are viewed as too simple to be featured on menus where bartenders care to make a great drink,” says Fitzgerald. “Similarly, places where burgers are featured are usually places with drinks are an afterthought, and the Manhattans end up being shaken with dead vermouth.”
And just because you can have both in the same place, that doesn’t always mean that you should, Motz warns. At some bars, he might opt for “a really nice pilsner,” while a drive-through burger should always be chased with a root beer or maybe even a chocolate milkshake. But during “elevated moments,” such as the types of places you might also find steak on the menu, a Manhattan is the right match. “You’re elevating the status of the burger, in a way, to the status of the cocktail,” says Motz.
To save you from the Sad Smashburger experience, here are a few more bars and restaurants endorsed by the pros that can do the pairing Manhattan/burger pairing justice.
Recommended Manhattan-and-burger joints to seek out
Long Island Bar, Brooklyn: This Brooklyn mainstay was cited by both Montgomerie and Fitzgerald as a must-visit. “The drinks are some of my favorite in the city, and their burger is really good too,” says Montgomerie. “Also, there’s something about the place that makes it feel like you’re having the right thing, in the right place at the right time.”
Red Hook Tavern, Brooklyn: According to Montgomerie, “their burger is incredible, and the bartenders also know how to whip up a mean Manhattan.”
NOPA, San Francisco: “I know the burgers are very good, and I know the bartenders can make solid drinks,” says Fitzgerald.
Minetta Tavern, NYC: “It’s the ultimate take-me-now experience,” observes Motz. “People say you can never get in for dinner, but you can walk in on Thursday for lunch, sit down and get a cocktail and burger at the bar.”
Hillstone: Yes, the national restaurant chain. “The other locations likely have a good Manhattan, but San Francisco definitely does,” notes Fitzgerald.
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