Caramelized Cream Pancakes

Like many great creations, caramelized cream was discovered by accident. Craig Wilmer, chef of Farmhouse Inn in Sonoma County, was making clotted cream in an old oven when the inconsistent heat caused the heavy cream around the edges of the pan to burn. Knowing that heavy cream has about six times more milk solids than butter — and that toasted milk solids are what gives brown butter its nutty, rich flavor — Wilmer and his team were curious and optimistic about the results. “We tried it, and it was insanely intense,” he says. Since then, caramelized cream (aka “super brown butter,” as they like to call it at the restaurant), has become a staple ingredient that appears in several of Farmhouse Inn’s dishes and desserts, including their pancakes.

Pancakes were a natural use for this cream. “The medium of a pancake itself, because it’s flour and milk, is a neutral canvas that allows the concentrated flavors of the super brown butter to open up,” says Wilmer. Combined with sugar and a smidge of cinnamon, the nuances of the warm and nutty caramelized cream shine, adding a depth and complexity similar to brown butter but with amplified intensity.

Pancake batter is only the beginning of caramelized cream’s potential applications. “I’ve used it a number of different ways. Pretty much anything you use brown butter in would be great,” explains Wilmer. With a pastelike consistency at room temperature, try melted caramelized cream tossed with toasted nuts or popcorn, or baste it over seared fish like in trout almondine.

Wilmer recommends toasting heavy cream on the stovetop, rather than in the oven, for better control over the process. To reduce the risk of scorching, once the cream darkens to golden brown, turn off the stove and allow the residual heat to continue browning it. 

“You’ll smell an overwhelming brown butter and hazelnut aroma. I’m looking for a hint of bitterness to appear and, color-wise, for a dark brown roux or a wet, earthen color. It should be quite dark. Not black, but very dark brown,” he says. Caramelized cream can be stored in the fridge, and the toasty flavor intensifies over time.

What is demerara sugar?

Demerara sugar is a raw cane sugar with a toffeelike sweetness. Find it at specialty grocery stores or online at myspicesage.com. Turbinado sugar can be substituted for demerara sugar, adding a molasseslike flavor to the pancakes.

What is the difference between European-style butter and American butter?

European-style butters have a higher butterfat percentage than American butters, giving them a richer flavor and creamier mouthfeel. American butters are typically around 80% butterfat, while European-style butters contain around 82% butterfat. 

Notes from the Food & Wine Test Kitchen

Keep a close eye on the heavy cream as it simmers. It needs to be stirred often, and once the fat has fully separated from the milk solids, it starts to brown pretty quickly.

Have your ice bath ready so you can immediately stop the browning process and prevent the mixture from becoming too dark.

Make ahead

The batter can be prepared through step 4 up to one day in advance and stored, covered, in the refrigerator. Let the batter stand at room temperature for about 45 minutes, and proceed with step 5 as directed.

Leftover burnt cream will keep up to two weeks when stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator. As Wilmer suggests, toss it with toasted nuts or popcorn, or baste it over seared fish like in trout almondine.