Michelin-Starred Chefs Are Using This Fungus to Transform Food Waste Into New Dishes

Food waste is a huge issue in the U.S., where an estimated 30% to 40% of the food supply is tossed out. But a team of researchers and chefs are actively working to turn food that was once written off as garbage into gourmet delicacies with the help of a certain fungus. 

It’s all broken down in a new scientific article published in the journal Nature Microbiology. In the study, a group of scientists led by Vayu Hill-Maini, Ph.D., a chef, scientist, and post-doctoral fellow at the University of California, Berkeley, detail how they use the fungus Neurospora intermedia to ferment foods that were once considered waste. 

The researchers discovered that the fungus could grow on a range of byproducts, including fruit and vegetable pulp, and plant-based milk waste. They also found that Neurospora intermedia didn’t give off mycotoxins (which are toxic substances produced by fungi) and created foods that actually taste good. 

“These results showcase the traditional significance and future potential of fungal fermentation for creating delicious and nutritious foods from readily available byproducts,” the researchers concluded. 

Neurospora intermedia is already being used at award-winning kitchens like Blue Hill at Stone Barns in New York State and Alchemist in Copenhagen. Here’s how it all works.

What is Neurospora intermedia?

Neurospora intermedia is a type of fungus that’s traditionally used in Indonesia to make a food called oncom from soy pulp. The fungus uses pectin (a naturally occurring thickener) and cellulose (the main component of plant cell walls) during fermentation. 

“It has the unique ability to break down cellulose into edible food,” says Andrew Luzmore, chef and director of special projects at Blue Hill At Stone Barns, who uses Neurospora intermedia. “It’s a new tool in our toolkit to provide value and economic value to what is considered food waste. It has the potential to take something and make it valuable.”

What can Neurospora intermedia do to food?

But Neurospora intermedia doesn’t just turn food waste into something edible. “It’s another way to process and make the nutrients more bioavailable,” Luzmore told Food & Wine. The team at Blue Hill At Stone Barns used to send food products to Hill-Maini to be transformed with Neurospora intermedia but recently invested in an incubator and tissue culture hood to do it themselves. 

Neurospora intermedia can transform food. “With Neurospora intermedia, we have a new tool in the chef’s toolbox—one that brings new colors, textures, and flavors,” Hill-Maini says. “This will open doors to new creativity and innovation to push boundaries in gastronomy.” 

But Hill-Maini says sustainability is a big factor in using this fungus, too. “It was domesticated in Indonesia for the purpose of converting waste into food, which stands out among fungi that are widely used in kitchens today,” he says. “It grows incredibly rapidly and robustly on many different waste streams from the food industry, including those frequently produced in restaurants. Therefore, it’ll open doors to improving sustainability by converting otherwise wasted ingredients into foods—without sacrificing flavor.”

Luzmore has used Neurospora intermedia in sausage that has a high component of non-meat products like grains and vegetables to get a smooth texture, as well as to create a binding agent. “When working with the Neurospora, it does bring the texture together and make it more workable,” Luzmore says. He’s also used the fungus to transform stale rice bread into a savory product.

What does Neurospora intermedia taste like?

It depends. “It’s a bit of a chameleon,” Luzmore says, noting that Neurospora intermedia has a “distinct flavor” that can change depending on what you use it on and how you cook it. “When it’s fresh coming out of the incubator, it has a button mushroom, vaguely fruity flavor,” Luzmore says. “It sounds weird, but together those flavors are quite pleasant.” 

When cooked, Luzmore says that Neurospora intermedia  takes on a “cheesy aroma and flavor,” adding, “it tastes like cheddar cheese.”

Hill-Maini says that Neurospora intermedia has “incredible potential” for addressing food sustainability issues. He plans to explore more about how to use the fungus for upcycling waste and making meat and dairy alternatives. “We also plan to host workshops for people to learn more about this fungus to share our findings with the world,” he says. 

While Luzmore points out that Neurospora intermedia has been used for thousands of years in Indonesia, he is hopeful that it can help transform issues with food waste in other parts of the world. “It’s still quite early for us in our exploration, but the hope is that this will create a tool to make our food system better,” he says.