On the only Caribbean island comprising two countries — the French St. Martin, in the northern region, and the slightly smaller Dutch Sint Maarten, along the south side — it’s common to be curious about the kinds of cuisine that can be found here. People of over 120 nationalities call the island home, and the diversity shows in the dishes offered in and around this delicious destination.
You’ll find an endless variety of fine dining restaurants, beachfront bistros, and elevated eateries scattered throughout the island, showcasing international influences on each plate. But it’s the back road food stalls that will give you the best taste of the Sint Maarten food scene. The locally lauded lolos, or tiny open-air food stalls that center around a barbecue, invite you to stroll up in your sandals, pull up a stool, pop a bottle of Pelikaan (locally brewed beer), and chat with locals while you wait for your freshly prepared meal.
More than a food stall, a lolo is a casual community hub, where people gather to catch up, watch a game, and connect over a shared meal. For Caribbean culture, lolos are about more than just easy access to affordable food, they’re places to connect as a community, where Caribbean Creole comfort food is consumed in the physical comforts of a casual outdoor space shared by anyone looking for a snack. It’s the mix of cultures coming together on this tiny island that defines the dynamic food landscape, and local lolos showcase the best of the culture and cuisine.
Here are just some of the standout lolos that locals love in Sint Maarten.
Visit the Seafood King for sumptuous snapper
Look for the colorful chairs and large crowds to identify Breedy’s Pit Stop & Seafood Shack among a line of lolos that stand steps from Kimsha Beach in Simpson Bay. This spot serves up arguably the best seafood on the island, just ask the locals who make up most of the customers here. New visitors are welcome, too, often greeted with a shot of guavaberry (the centuries-old national liqueur of Sint Maarten). Owner and chef Brian, known locally as the “Seafood King,” will ask how you’d like your fish prepared.
Made fresh to order, his seafood is caught by a local fisherman and friend. The snapper, served steamed, pan fried, or grilled, is a frontrunner in his lineup of fish offerings. It’s flavorful and served whole with your choice of sides. Opt for the crispy fried plantains and rice and beans. Conch dishes and crab soup are also popular picks. Settle in for a cool bevy, a seafood snack, and a chat with locals — and you may even spot a celebrity while you’re here (singer Vere Hill and actor Cuba Gooding Jr. have been known to visit when in town).
Jump in line for Johnny cakes
A famous food spot since the early ’90s, the Original Fat Boy Jimmy’s is likely one of the most beloved lolos in Sint Maarten, where long lines can be expected, and the food is well worth the wait. Pick a picnic table and stock up on napkins, because you’re going to need them. The hotspot is a family affair, first opened by “the original Jimmy” and now run by his son, chef Francois, behind the grill and his daughter, Alicia, who runs the business side of the bustling shack. Mom helps in the kitchen, too, known to make the best (and inimitable) oxtail stew, curried goat, and pigtail soup.
Fall-off-the-bone barbecue ribs are a staple here, perfectly paired with a hearty serving of mac ‘n’ cheese and some warm and fluffy johnny cakes (so good, you’ll want to order two). The only thing sweeter than the food is a chat with the chef himself — his big personality and boisterous laugh are sure to leave you feeling full, both in belly and heart.
Save room for remarkable roti
Get a taste of Trinidad at Cindy’s Roti Shack, a popular roadside roti spot run by Cindy, a Trinidadian woman who made St. Maarten home over 30 years ago. Cindy makes her rotis, flatbreads, and meat dishes fresh every day and can often be spotted whipping up a new batch of dough from behind the counter. Hot doubles — a pair of fried flatbreads topped with curried chickpeas, chutney, and tamarind sauce — lure a lineup of locals looking for a breakfast takeaway in the early mornings (the shack starts serving at 7 a.m.) and are so tasty, they’re known to sell out before 11 a.m. You can’t miss the bright yellow snack shack that sits on the side of the main road into Philipsburg, where Trinidad treats, like the giant goat roti wrap, satisfies — wash down with an ice cold pop.
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