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New York’s Hudson Valley has long been recognized for its wild beauty, abundant resources, and fertile soil. Mohican and Munsee Native American tribes first discovered this river-fed region 13,000 years ago when migrating into land laid bare by receding glaciers. In the mid-1500s, Europeans including Henry Hudson, alighted on America’s Eastern shores, ushering in a wave of settlement and farming, including the production of wine. While one of America’s oldest viticultural regions, the Hudson Valley trails in awareness compared to its peers. A short growing season, diverse geology, and humid weather challenge the most dedicated winemakers. Yet, it’s become a hotbed of experimentation with styles and varieties ranging from Spanish Albariño to cold-hardy hybrids, which has earned its wineries a turn in the national spotlight. Here are six to explore on your next trip.
“Must I tell you that neither the Alps nor the Appenines, nor even Aetna itself, have dimmed, in my eyes, the beauty of our Catskills.”
— Thomas Cole, regarded as the founder of the Hudson River School of Art
Fjord Vineyards
Courtesy of Fjord Vineyards
Wedged between Storm King Mountain to the west and Mt. Beacon to the east, Fjord Vineyards refers to a geological feature which contributes a unique micro-climate to the vineyards. The Hudson Highlands area comprises a series of ridges and valleys cleaved by the Hudson River which flows through a steep, U-shaped fjord carved during the North American glaciation period over 13,300 years ago. Fjord’s owners, Matthew Spaccarelli and Casey Erdmann utilize the wet, cool conditions to create singular wines from Riesling, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Pinot Noir, and rosé. However, it’s Fjord’s crisp aromatic Albariño that put them on the national map. Founded in 2013, the winery expanded into a tasting room with a view in 2019. They offer wine flights around the stone patio by appointment. Keep an eye on their social media for special events featuring oysters, lobster rolls, and pizza.
Benmarl Winery
Rima Brindamour
Two of the top wineries in Hudson Valley share a familial connection: Matt Spaccarelli’s parents bought Benmarl in 2006. It was at Benmarl that Matt launched his career in wine, starting as an assistant winemaker, moving up to head winemaker while launching Fjord Vineyards. However, Benmarl Winery remains an HV OG. The nearly 40-acre estate holds the first New York farm winery license. After parking near the main buildings at the top of the property, visitors encounter generous views of the Hudson Valley’s vineyards and forest. Wines range from regional classics like Cabernet Franc and Merlot to Riesling, Chardonnay, several red and white blends, and cold-hardy hybrid white grape, Seyval Blanc. In addition to tastings booked by appointment, the winery hosts events throughout the year including comedy night, a sangria festival, and harvest events.
Millbrook Vineyards & Winery
Sylvain Cote
Visitors know they’ve reached Millbrook when their eyes settle on a two-story Dutch-style building set amid vineyards. The building’s architecture offers a nod to the early settlements of New Netherland and New Amsterdam, formed when the Dutch traded along the Hudson River as early as 1611. Today, the building serves as the hub of activity, with a tasting room and shop fanning out across the ground floor, and a second-floor lounge that invites visitors to settle in with a glass or bottle. Millbrook’s zesty bright Tocai Friulano remains a fan favorite. An outdoor patio opens when the weather warms, typically between late May and early October. Check the website for a host of rotating events, from food trucks on Friday nights to jazz concerts and a summer solstice party. If your legs need a stretch, hit the mile-long walking trail.
Whitecliff
Courtesy of Whitecliff winery
Founded over 30 years ago, Whitecliff remains an artisanal, family-run operation. Michael Migliore, co-founder with his wife Yancey Stanforth-Migliore, grew up with grapes — his Italian and German grandfather made wine at home. The couple met in the Hudson Valley and decided to commit to the region by planting a vineyard. Through years of trial and error, the winery has evolved into one of the most respected brands in the valley. Today, visitors regularly run into the couple in the tasting room or cross paths with winemaker Brad Martz, who brings creativity to the nearly 20 varieties grown on the estate for a range of blends and single varietal wines. Reserve a tasting on Fridays and weekends when the place gets crowded.
City Winery
Courtesy of City Winery
Michael Dorf founded the first City Winery in Manhattan in 2008. He bridged a background in music with a passion for wine to launch this music venue, winery, and tasting room mash-up. The concept became so successful, Dorf expanded into major cities across the country and most recently, the actual countryside. City Winery Hudson Valley enjoys a favored site in the sprawling Montgomery Hills factory complex, a former grist mill, that features sweeping views of the adjacent Wallkill River. Though cozy in winter, City Winery really shows off come summer. Beneath twinkling lights strung across the patio, sip one of a dozen wines, dine al fresco by the outdoor fireplace, then head over to a concert in the moonlit amphitheater. City Winery is as much about the experience as it is the wines.
Rose Hill Ferments
Courtesy of Rose Hill winery
Part orchard, part fermentation lab for apples and grapes, Rose Hill Ferments lures locals and weekenders in search of fresh air to its pastoral setting. Devoted to minimalist practices, Rose Hill has a line of wines and ciders available to sample in the taproom, Fridays through Sundays. The property dates back to 1798 when Peter Fraleigh bought the land parcel. It stayed in the Fraleigh family until November 2015 when Bruce and Holly Brittain and Chris Belardi purchased it. Long an apple wholesale farm, the last Fraleigh generation converted it to a u-pick model, which remains a vital component of the business today. In January 2020, the current ownership team launched the wine brand which includes wine, cider, and co-fermented fruit wine made organically and minimally.
Hudson Valley wineries to watch
For natural wine lovers, Wild Arc serves as the valley’s first and best-known indie producer. Founder Todd Cavallo takes credit for bringing the piquette (fizzy, low ABV wine) movement to the region. Field Supply, near the hip town of Hudson, sources fruit from Long Island and the Finger Lakes while its vineyards mature. Field Supply plans to open a tasting room this year to introduce guests to quirky grapes like hybrid Noiret, floral Muscat, and a rosé of co-fermented Noiret and Riesling. Minimalist winemakers and husband and wife duo Alfie Alcántara and Deanna Urciuoli launched a vineyard and winery called Dear Native Grapes. The project pays homage to America’s forgotten or underused native and hybrid varieties like citrusy Cayuga and fruity Isabella, an obscurity first discovered in South Carolina. The couple’s tasting room will open in summer 2024. In the meantime, look for these producers at Rose Hill.
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