5 Ways to Get Hands On With Dim Sum in Hong Kong

At Michelin-starred Cantonese restaurant Spring Moon, an institution since 1986 housed within The Peninsula Hong Kong, one of the elegant dishes during a tour de force lunch may be a pan-fried cod fish served with quinoa, alongside a stylized goldfish-shaped dumpling stuffed with minced shrimp. Perhaps inspired by the incredible Instagram-worthy dish, some diners may then opt to get hands-on in the kitchen, learning about the intricacies of creating the cuisine by enrolling in the hotel’s Dim Sum Making Class, a tutorial offered in conjunction with chef Lam Yuk Ming and his crack dim sum squad.

It’s harder than it seems, of course, and your sad, droopy-eyed goldfish may prove to be a poor imposter of the real thing. But it makes the restaurant’s fanciful creation, served to hundreds of diners per day, all the more memorable.

In Cantonese culture, dim sum isn’t just a meal, it’s a way of life. “In Hong Kong, ‘yum cha’ originally referred to ‘going to a tea house,’” says chef Lam. “Over time, it evolved into ‘drinking tea’ which became synonymous with going to a tea house to enjoy dim sum.”

It’s such an essential component to life in Hong Kong that the phrase signifying going out for dim sum is also used as a social catchall. “‘Duk haan yum chaa la!’ is a phrase you hear uttered a lot between people who run into each other on the street, literally meaning, ‘Let’s have dim sum when you’re free!’” says Charmaine Mok, deputy culture editor of South China Morning Post in Hong Kong. “But it’s also one that can have another meaning, a bit like, ‘Let’s catch up sometime!’ and you never do.”

Dim sum is an excuse to get together, catch-up, and socialize; the let’s grab a drink or coffee of Cantonese culture. “Yum cha is also popular for family gatherings on weekends, where all the family members sit together to share their anecdotes during the week,” says chef Lam.

Hong Kong flag carrier Cathay Pacific has even brought dim sum onboard and into the airport. “Dim sum is intricately woven into the fabric of Hong Kong’s culture, serving not only as a meal but a social event,” says Vivian Lo, the airline’s general manager of customer experience and design. “We have curated a variety of dim sum at our lounges and in-flight to showcase this iconic culinary tradition to our customers — from steamed or pan-fried dumplings and buns to scrumptious baked delights and more.”

Before a flight, passengers can visit The Noodle Bar, Cathay’s restaurant within its international lounges, for dim sum staples such as xiao long bao, har gau shrimp dumplings, steamed pork buns, and dan dan noodles. Once on board, the airline has partnered with prestigious Hong Kong restaurants such as the Michelin-starred Cantonese restaurant Duddell’s. Breakfast in Cathay’s first class therefore might include Hong Kong sampan congee with a dim sum selection of four dumplings.

Seizing the opportunity to head back into the kitchen is key to unlocking the mysteries of dim sum in full, and it’s a prized, rare level of access that never used to be available. “It’s a problem we have here where there is a gap between the masters who know their craft and the students who want to learn,” Mok says.

That makes an offering such as the one from Spring Moon and The Peninsula, spearheaded by chef Lam, all the more special. “We welcome every guest with joy because teaching dim sum in the kitchen allows them to experience our working environment and processes,” he says. “Making dim sum in front of them deepens their understanding and gives them a firsthand experience of this unique Cantonese culinary culture, creating unforgettable memories for each of them.”

There’s no replacing that firsthand experience and knowledge, and it should be on any hungry Hong Kong visitor’s list. “Dim sum is part of Cantonese culture, full stop,” Mok says.

Where to try dim sum in Hong Kong

Here’s where to learn about and indulge in dim sum for a delicious, interactive education.

Enroll in a dim sum workshop at The Peninsula

At The Peninsula Hong Kong, Dim Sum Making Class is a private two-hour session held in the hotel’s banquet kitchen, including refreshments and followed by a lunch at Michelin-starred Spring Moon. Enrollees will snag recipes and a certificate of the class as a souvenir. The experience costs about $350 per person (HK$2,680 + 10% service).

Visit a traditional dim sum shop

Bamboo steamers are the backbones of the cultural mainstay that is dim sum. Head to Tuck Chong Sum Kee Bamboo Steamer Company in Sai Wan to gain a greater appreciation for them. “It’s interesting to learn more about the iconic bamboo steamers used in dim sum making by visiting traditional stores,” Mok says.

Practice proper dim sum etiquette

Mok suggests a few etiquette pointers for dim sum beginners. For instance, as Cantonese cuisine highlights the freshness of ingredients, you should try dishes such as har gau and siu mai dumplings on their own before dipping in chili oil or other condiments.

Expect to wait at popular restaurants that don’t take reservations, and of course, always share your dim sum basket. “It’s not proper to have a whole basket of dim sum to yourself,” Mok says. Along the same lines, pour tea for others at the table before yourself. “To thank others who pour for you, you can tap two fingers on the table as a quick and silent gesture of gratitude.”

Combine a tour and cooking class

The Four Seasons Hong Kong offers a Kowloon food tour led by chef Chan Yan Tak, the first Chinese chef to earn three Michelin stars, in addition to a class on preparing dim sum in his restaurant, Lung King Heen. The Culinary Masterclass and Tour begins with a dim sum workshop in the kitchen, followed by a culinary tour, culminating with a dinner at the two-Michelin starred restaurant. The full-day experience costs about $2,150 for two people (HK$16,800) and is only available for Four Seasons Elite Guests.

Dim sum restaurants in Hong Kong

When in doubt, pull up a chair and sit down for another meal. “The best way to learn is to eat,” Mok says. Here’s a cheat sheet:

“I recommend the most traditional in Hong Kong, such as Luk Yu Tea House or Lin Heung Tea House,” says chef Lam. “This is where you can experience the oldest and the most traditional tea house culture. In the past, dim sum used to be sold by dim sum sellers carrying trays hanging in front of them or on carts displaying the names of dim sum varieties and transitioning to nowadays, where many tea houses provide dim sum menus for guests to pick and choose their preferred dim sum dishes.”

Mok recommends Lin Heung for the same reason, “for the classic trolley action. It has quite a history and after shuttering a few years back, it recently reopened, much to the delight of everyone.”

Lo (who also recommended the same joint, making Lin Heung a three for three and probably a place you should consider visiting) suggests Sun Hing Restaurant. “It’s another local neighborhood favorite, known for serving traditional dim sum from late night to the early hours,” she says.

Mok’s personal favorite, which she calls a dim sum experience as well as an adventure, is DuenvKee (Tuen Kee). “It’s nestled at the lower section of Hong Kong’s tallest mountain, Tai Mo Shan, and is a traditional teahouse where everything is self-service: You find a seat, get your own crockery and cutlery, and choose your own tea,” she says. “Dim sum steamers are stacked high for the taking, and they also have a few nostalgic items you rarely see elsewhere these days — like pork liver siu mai and steamed preserved sausage rolls.”

Still hungry? Mok has you covered. She suggests Ho Lee Fook as a modern option. “Chef Winson Yip and head chef Archan Chan are really moving the needle for Cantonese cuisine while preserving its traditions,” she says. To be awed by the scale of a mega-operation, head to Metropol Restaurant. “It’s a fascinating place, and their central island features a lot of cooked-to-order items.” For fine-dining style dim sum, Hong Kong Cuisine 1983. “Their har gau is one of the most elegant in town and comes with a little dropper to add a really intense roasted prawn oil to bring out even more of the umami seafood flavors.”